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      翟春玲:寻秋问道铁瓦寺

      时间: 2019-09-10 | 作者:翟春玲 | 来源: to作文 | 编辑: admin | 阅读: 538次

        点击上方“蓝字”关注,酷爽一夏清晨的高速公路上,车流稀少。一车人坐在车里,我们几个却几乎同时被东边的日出和半天的彩霞所吸引。金色耀眼的朝阳努力的在云海里挣扎,出云的地方霞光万道,将挂在东边的所有的青云都染成了绯红色。云层也在使劲的遮盖和笼罩,金色的霞光层层穿透,但也抵挡不住乌云的前赴后继。东山顶上,硕大的太阳始终无法摆脱乌云的纠缠,只是金光染透了东山,一股不知从何处冒出的白色的浓烟,在金光下,远远的竟有了“墟里孤烟直”的感觉。有友从暮春便给我推送秦岭里库峪太兴山铁瓦殿,努力蛊惑我有机会一定去试试一身犯“险”,脚下掌握着一生的滋味。喜欢山水,喜欢走进它,去感知它的春花,夏绿,秋叶,冬雪。于是,在早秋里,跟着强驴友们一起踏上了太兴山的道路。

        朝霞不出门的谚语让领队强调着说今天可能要下雨,出门看过天气预报,只是预报阴天,所以努力反驳着领队的话,因为做过攻略,如果下雨,是无论如何都走不到今天最想走到的地方了。一路颠簸,终于进山了,山口的限高处大巴车停下,因为山路狭窄,只能坐当地的小车进山。一番讨价还价后,友友们分别坐上了进山的小车。也许是有缘,我们坐的小车是一位和尚师傅的包车,师傅看我们进山,就让司机拉上我们。从山口到山脚下,也需要将近一个小时,遂在车上和师傅攀谈起来,师傅来自江苏台州,来太兴山只为寻找加舍佛前世讲经的莲花台。我们无缘一睹莲花台的英姿,只能在沟口和师傅分手,祈愿师傅能找到山形酷似莲花台的讲经旧址,圆了他的心愿。

        从进山便真的一直在下雨,天阴沉着,秋雨蒙蒙,一切都笼罩在蒙蒙细雨。山很静,头顶就是莽莽苍苍的的群山。整理好行装,进山了。

        路边的悬崖上,绿色掩映中,我竟然真看到了一株早秋的红叶,青山绿水细雨里,它红的有些夺目,有些羞涩,有些让人猝不及防。山路掩映在蒿草里,人走进去,我的身高几乎看不到了。比较轻松的土路渐渐消失了,取代的便是怪石嶙峋的石头路。石头层层叠叠,形状各异的裸露在山谷里。山坡上一层薄薄的土层上,林木竟然也遮天蔽日。头顶不时有雨珠穿透密密的叶子,滴落在头上。脚边的蒿草里露水晶莹,它们热情的尽着地主之谊,将我们的脚步全部打湿。湿滑的石头路让这上山之路变得艰难了很多。秦岭里各个季节都有野花盛开,只是在秋季多了很多成熟的不知名的野果。一株珠红似玛瑙的野果在雨水中更是耀眼和清透,摘了两个,放在手心里,好似我真的收获了秋实。头顶的野花椒远远就闻到了花椒味,小小的红色的野花椒果就这样静静的挂在枝头,自生自灭。爬高持续着,坡度越来越陡峭。一直在低头上山,在友的提醒下,抬头一座酷似直立的张嘴的鲨鱼石直挺挺的立在面前。惊愕的抬头看着这向天狂笑大张其口的石鳄。感叹着造物主的神奇。脚下是第四世纪冰川遗址的石海,头顶是神奇的石峰。转过一道湾眼前就是壁立千仞的峰岭。白色的悬崖,壁立千仞,屹立了千万载。崖壁上生长着一颗颗青松,它们竟然生长的整齐有序。没有一丝土壤,它们却能扎根石缝,努力生根发芽成长,咬定巨石不放松,立根原在破岩中,见证南北东西风。感叹生命的神奇和种子的力量。

        终于攀上了垭口,一座石头垒成的石台上,竟有西藏寺庙的感觉。药王洞立在平台上。干净的庙堂里,油彩如新的药王肃穆的坐在高台上,供台上有香炉,有可以上香的香火,有蒲团,香客只要带一颗虔诚心就好了。不敢久留,队友的催促声里又出发了,因目的地还在更险处,沉重的脚步终于踏入了岱顶的无央宫。反身,群山犹如一朵朵盛开的莲花朵朵相连,朵朵峰岭上竟然有大片的云海,远处极目之处,洁白的云海飘浮在山峰上,但没有越过峰顶,近眼出,一座座俏丽的山峰上,白云悠悠荡荡,峰岭好似雕刻过的一样俊俏挺拔。真的如同动漫电影里制作的动画世界。仙山俊俏,白云飘荡,白云深处便是神仙洞府。这是一处道观。有修行的道士,因为时间有限,在道观补充能量后要去更险的地方。只是草草浏览了道观,瞻仰了各尊莲台高坐的诸天神佛,便又上路了。

        各种野花翠木中,终南第一峰矗立眼前了。真正险峻的行程才开启了。将近90度的石阶几乎直立在峰壁上,一串铁链不知何年何月何人挂在石壁上,攀爬要抓住铁链。上过铁链石阶,登上需要手脚并用的石路,一处突兀的巨石挡在了必经之路。石咀突出,需要弯腰驼背才能过去。过去后仔细看才觉得像一万年石龟,默默的守在山路上,为所有峰顶上的菩萨天尊守卫。太兴山的石门终于出现在几乎九十度的山崖上。无量殿便在这峰顶上。一座不大的殿堂,有偏殿,一道姑坐在偏殿里,一白狗窝在她的脚边。正殿面南,殿前有铁制的功德香炉,有做过功德的人名清晰的雕刻在铁炉上,字迹工整。高台下有铁制的狮子,殿边有废弃的铁柱子,令人惊奇的是无量殿的房顶上的瓦竟然也是铁瓦,所以它又被人俗称“铁瓦寺”,但它严格的说是道观。无量殿上的无量天尊庄严肃穆的莲台高坐。相传无量祖师爷在这太兴山修行42年才得道成仙。这一宽数十米见方的山脊梁上,两边就是悬崖峭壁。一字排开的五座殿宇矗立在山脊梁上。每到一殿都要有过命的虔诚。下了无量殿便是仙姑殿,三仙姑正襟稳坐,慈眉善目,诠释着庄严肃穆大方的女性柔美。仙姑殿后是太上老君殿。穿过太上老君殿便到了今天最想去的地方铁庙。人们俗称它为“铁庙”,是因为它只是一座咫尺见方的铁制小庙,令人惊奇的是它虽然小,但重量千斤,它是如何屹立在这极顶的,小小的庙宇里面依然供奉有仙尊。

        必经之路第一站便是惊险刺激的鹞子翻身了。一块巨大的石头,要过去必须翻过大石。脚下便时万丈深渊,石头光滑,仅仅一条不知何年月何人栓制的铁链悬挂在石壁上。向下看,眩晕的几乎呕吐,但想去朝拜铁庙必须过此鹞子翻身。这名称简直太贴切了,鹞子如何在空中翻身,过的人就要如何翻身。吓得几乎不敢睁眼看。领队张哥在前,收队微笑哥在后,俩人一前一后,我加在中间,抬起颤抖的脚,迈开了攀爬的第一步。张哥在前面小心谨慎的上石,抓住铁链,寻找最保险的落脚点,大声叮咛我仔细看他的动作要领,微笑哥在后面抓住我,让我有踏实点的感觉,张哥站稳后,指点着我的落脚点。不能走一丝一毫的偏差。落脚点仅仅能踩着石壁五分之一的脚掌。手臂扒着棱角分明的石壁,手疼的几乎扒不住。但这是一念生死的关头,手抓的几乎都没有了直觉。我曾经无数次想过生死,可当我直面生死之时,我胆怯了,害怕的想大声哭喊,可又怕哭喊会颤抖,继而会影响手的力度。眼泪掉下来,打在脚面上,它摔下去会落在脚下的万丈深渊里吗?汗水湿透了衣服,终于被暂时安全了,鹞子翻身翻过来了后,所有的感触只是害怕。

        老君犁沟就在脚下了。俩块巨石人字行挺立,垂直九十度。一条铁链静静的垂挂在俩壁中间的缝隙里。没有任何落脚点,只能手抓铁链垂直下滑止悬崖中间裸露的一层不足一尺见方的石台上。脚下依然是壁立千仞。依然是张哥在前,微笑哥在后,我在中间,心提在嗓子眼里,紧张的都发紧发疼,看着张哥的动作,我抓住铁链,开始了下滑第一步。几步过后,手臂一点力量也没有了,脚找不到攀登的落脚点,吓得大声呼喊,张哥大声鼓励着,告诉我要落脚方向,微笑哥纠正着走抓铁链的方式。终于到一平缓处,忽一低头,铁链竟然有字:咸丰八年锻造。这铁链竟然风风雨雨几百年了。稍事休息,继续下滑。当我脚落在地面的那一刻,我竟然有死过一次的感觉,瞬间感受生死,也许是我此行最大的收获。当年挚爱离开,生离死别,我感觉死并不可怕,曾经无数次想过生死,可当我真正直面生死之时,生才是王道。我有那么多没有尽完的义务。要向死而生。

        两座石壁不知被那位仙人撕开,连接两壁的是一铁板。驴友们说它叫铁板桥。一块铁板架在两块石壁上,当我踏上时,害怕的不敢直起腰身,脚下就是深不可测的山谷,一脚踩空,将万劫不复。队友的扶持下,走过了铁板桥。

        最惊险的骑马石终于出现了,宽不过盈尺的两块石头,一块在彼峰,一块在此峰,要从脚下的石块下到合适的落脚处,跳过脚下的万丈深渊,然后攀爬上对面的石头上,对面的石头叫骑马石,攀爬上去只能做骑行状,只有马背宽,手无处扒。冷汗一直在渗透,五分之一的落脚点让我有渡劫飞升的感觉,此一跳也许海阔天空,无限风光,也许坠入深渊,重修来世。惊险的被人称为“猴抱柱”让我瞬间有一线生死之感。高大的张哥我不知他是如何克服恐惧,一次次带领驴友攀爬,一次次抉择生死?我这一跳便知生命无常。整个山谷里都是我惊恐万分的回声,山神似乎都在偷笑玲珑不玲珑。救命的铁链和对队友无上的信任里,前面拽,后面扶持下,我上了骑马石。不敢站起身,有胆大的驴友直起身子,张开双臂,欲要腾飞。惜命的我一点都不敢乱动。领队和微笑哥保护下,我终于渡劫成功了,安全的踏上摸铁庙的相对比较的石路了。手要抓住一处凸出的石壁,转过石壁,铁庙就在最高处一块小巧的石头上,高高在上,香烟邈邈。一次仅能过去俩人,可以互相扶持。攀上巨石,要低头弯腰过一小石洞,我感觉是对佛祖的敬畏吧,才如此设计。出了石洞,眼前豁然开朗,对面远望千峰环绕,云海起伏,近眼处石峰林立,俏丽俊秀,一尺宽的石台上,铁庙耸立。铁庙上有精致的花纹,小巧的庙门里有香炉香火,有无量天尊。小心的转身,将这千难万险过后才朝拜到的铁庙温柔的抚摸一遍,心生无限崇敬。据传这铁庙是当年无量祖师爷在前面的无量殿修行时每天打坐的地方,为躲避吵扰,便选在如此惊险的地方。无量祖师爷每天都在生死中修行打坐。现如今的人们百思不得其解,百年前的人们是如何将这千斤重的铸铁铸造的铁庙安放在这极顶之上的?如果是依靠人力,人又如何将这重物搬运过这重重险境?没有任何合理的解释,在山下曾和当地司机攀谈,他说小时听大人将,在古代,一个月黑风高夜,有一白胡子仙人,经过一夜劳作,第二天日出之时,这千斤重的铁庙便安放在这极顶上了,暂且让这传说迷惑自己吧。稍事瞻仰赶快回还,后面有好多历经生死过来朝拜的人,要让开朝拜路。

        惊魂未定中又开始了一次直面生死之路。回去要下行,比来时更是惊险,一次次手足无措,一次次感觉要失去自己,前保后护中,我终于安全回到无量殿了。回望,一条山脊梁上,庙宇坐落在极顶,云雾缭绕着,万丈深渊就是心底的业障,清扫心底,惊险中有对生命的尊重。有那么多的责任和义务,不能轻言放弃,就如同进山时车上的和尚师傅所说,人来到这世界上就是来受罪,来经历万般苦难的。

        云深处,一脚踏出太兴山的山门,红尘滚滚里,我们踏上归程,不说石海林立,不说道路湿滑难行,一切的一切都是生命中所要经历的,不能逃避,向死而生,生命是最值得尊重的,不管动物,或是一花一草。

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      文章标题: 翟春玲:寻秋问道铁瓦寺
      文章地址: http://www.jnhuadong.com/article-95-204032-0.html
      文章标签:问道  翟春玲  铁瓦寺

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